I remember as a child, on
the rare occasion when I was allowed to "sit up" for dinner, how
interminable that repast seemed. That may have been due to the
fact that my brother and I were forbidden to eat anything except a
biscuit or two. The idea that human beings required perpetual
nourishment was so deep-grounded that, to the end of my father's
life, the "wine and water tray" was brought in nightly before the
ladies went to bed. This tray contained port, sherry and claret, a
silver kettle of hot water, sugar, lemons and nutmeg, as well as
two large plates of sandwiches. All the ladies devoured wholly
superfluous sandwiches, and took a glass of wine and hot water
before retiring. I think people would be surprised to find how
excellent a beverage the obsolete "negus" is. Let them try a glass
of either port, sherry, or claret, with hot water, sugar, a
squeeze of lemon, and a dusting of nutmeg, and I think that they
will agree with me.
A custom, I believe, peculiar to our family, was the burning of
church incense in the rooms after dinner. At the conclusion of
dinner, the groom-of-the-chambers walked round the dining-room,
solemnly swinging a large silver censer.
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